Civil Articles

Find Out Secrets About Exterior Painting

Protecting your home from climate irregularities is of extreme importance. That’s why painting the exterior of your home right, is a sure way to your home’s longivity. Depending on what area of the country you live in, your home can be subject to experiencing drastic weather changes, whether it hot, scorching hot, windy, wet, cold, or freezing, your home, if properly painted should be protected.

The reason why you hear some paint contractor say, “80% of painting your home’s exterior consist of prep” (prep is an abbreviation for preparation). Well guess what, there 100% correct when it comes to exterior painting. Preparing your home can be the most challenging step in painting a house, especially starting April 1, 2010 when the EPA (environmental protection agency) would require any painter, painting a home built before 1978 to be certified. There are certain steps that should be taken before painting.

All surfaces must be cleaned. Normally your house can be cleaned using a detergent such as TSP ( trisodium phosphate), but I recommend using T.S.P. and bleach for removing any mold, that you may overlook. TSP and bleach can be mixed (1/2 cup of TSP with 1 part bleach to 4 parts of water), then let set for 5-10 minutes, then rinsed off with water.

All loose paint must be scraped properly. This is where that new EPA rule comes into affect. The conventional way is to use a paint scrapper and scrap, which I don’t recommend that at all, if your house was built before 1978, may contain lead paint, and if you have children, this can be a very, very, very serious matter. What I would recommend is first go up to your local paint or hardware store and purchase a lead testing kit, there pretty cheap, you shouldn’t spend more than $10, then test the area’s your painting. Secondly use 4-6 mil plastic to lay down on the ground around the area your scrapping before you start removing any loose paint. Finally, with a spray bottle (full of water) in one hand and a scrapper in the other wet the surface as you scrap. This prevent any dust particals. Make sure you wear a protective suit, eye google, and shoe covers. If you leave the area where your plastic is, take off your shoe cover’s. Keep the area contained.

Caulk all cracks. Use a good brand, water-based, all acrylic, or siliconized acrylic caulk or sealant if prolonged contact with water is not anticipated. These caulks are flexible enough to adapt to minor fluctuations in the substrate (e.g. the surface that has been caulked), stretching in gaps that widen slightly over time. They also adhere to a wide range of exterior suface’s. Paint do not adhere to pure silicone caulk, so please don’t use it.

You should be ready to apply primer and paint, unless you buy primer and paint in one. Most popular paint brands carry a paint that also has priming properties. Also, a good feature that most major paint brands offer is paint that has the ability to to be applied in cold weather, as long as its 35 degrees and above, your ok. If your interested in knowing the best house painting to buy or if you would to hire a qualified St. Louis Painter visit paint contractor. Thank You for reading my blog. LaVincent Hooker

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Posted in Painting · January 31st, 2010 · Comments (0)

How To Properly Paint A Brick Or Rough Surface?

Homeowners often update the appearance of their houses with a coat of fresh paint. However if you’re considering painting the ‘bricks’ on your home then there are a couple of things you should consider before you break out the spray guns and throw a party!

Painting coarse faced brick, block, or stone is unlike painting anything more you will ever have to paint. The significant difference is volume of work needed and the amount of material. These kinds of surfaces will use 2x as much material as any other. Being that these surfaces are so porous, they act like a sponge.

The labor comes in with the amount of effort needed to work the material into these surfaces. It is slow, hot work. The materials used as far as paint are not any different from any other paint except there are a few special products that do about the same job as regular paint. They may be a little heavier for better hiding. Like wood and metal, there are fillers that can be used on the coarse surfaces. They’re latex or oil-based. They are worked into the surface with either a stiff brush designed for this work or a heavy roller.

Yes, you’ll employ a giant amount of filler and only get about 200 square feet per gallon. However , the advantage to using filler is it smooths the surface meaning you’ll use less primer and less paint. Sometimes you may see somebody trying to use drywall compound in place of block filler. This is not a good practice. Employing a product for anything that it was not reserved for can cost you more than using the right product.

The one thing you can count on is they will fail. Leaving you nothing but the same problem you started with plus a massive mess to clean up. If you are feeling confident in your capability in using a spray to apply the filler or paint, that is’s great too. Just be sure to cover any surrounding surfaces not being painted and remember even if you employ a sprayer the material will still have to be gone over with a roller to be sure the material is well worked into the surface.

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Posted in Painting · November 17th, 2009 · Comments (0)

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